Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Wrapping it up

Was it all we expected?

No

Was it worth it?

Yes!

Expectations are always quashed by reality. We would have liked to spend a lot more time in New Zealand after the surprise tour on arrival and our subsequent day in Tauranga. What a beautiful country (at a price…expensive)! We really missed stopping on Rarotonga because of it reputation as a true tropical paradise. Papaeete Tahiti (or Mexihiti as we now call it) was a disappointment but Bora Bora was beautiful. Kiritibati would have been a bust if we hadn’t gotten involved in the aid program for the island schools (great work Sheila!) That was a high point for us. Overnight or late departure in Hilo would make Volcanoes National Park or other time intensive activities do-able. The sea days were many and that’s not a problem for us. Love the sea days!

The Mercury was in remarkably good shape for its age. There were some bare spots on the railings in the nether regions like the sports deck and the tables in the Palm Springs Café have seen better days, but all in all it is a beautiful ship with clean, well-maintained public areas and the sea days were all the better for it.

The working staff was a joy. All of our “regulars”, the cabin steward, waiter, assistant waiter, and assistant maitre d’ were top-notch. The general waiters in all locations were uniformly attentive and polite. The bar staff was a bit pushy with the drink sales, but backed off politely when told no. The bar staff that we used regularly were real gems. The Captain’s Club hostess was very nice and even endured the jolting, rainy tuck ride to visit the schools on Kiritibati. The first-line crew on Celebrity ships has always been a big part of what sets them above the competition.

The Customer Service desk was damaged. With the exception of Erwin, who we learned to ask for, they were either kept uninformed or, at best, lacked any concern for passenger’s problems. The upper crust of officers was distant, but that is often the case unless they are fluent in English.

We haven’t sailed Celebrity since late 2005, so we expected the Celebrity Singers and Dancers to have new material. Oh well…we’re not into the shows much. They had a tenor that was said to be pretty good, but if I’m going to spend A Night at the Opera, it had better feature Groucho, Chico and Harpo! The Hawaiian steel guitar player was about 100 years old, but it didn’t dim his skill at all. That was a good show.

I wish we would have timed our days better so we could see the Enrichment Series lecturers. One of them got stellar reviews and new info is never a bad thing for me.

The casino was not at all rapacious. Kim ended up spending about $200 in it, but on most days, she was playing on their money and had a lot of fun

The food was superb. Celebrity has a fourteen-day menu rotation, so we hit day one again on the last day. Ok with us! The menus offered a good selection of both appetizers and entrees. There are always some clunkers in the café (Euro-chefs don’t do Mexican!) but there were always alternatives. The legendary Eggs Benedict and Waffles were up to par and the evening sushi was great! Elegant tea was just that…elegant. Even Peri was always able to find something to eat (if you know Peri, you’ll realize how exceptional that statement is!) The pasta, pizza and burger bars served excellent examples of their respective cuisines. The 4 oz. premium Martinis are actually worth $10!

Are we glad we did it?

Oh, yes!

Would we do it again?

Not soon, if ever. Maybe, someday, we’ll do the Sydney to Auckland leg. Australia still beckons.

Day sixteen – Homeward bound!

There was a stunning sunrise over Honolulu to start the day. We got off a little late and waited for buses way longer than was comfortable.

By the time the bus got there, the luggage area was completely vacant except for one lonely bag. Check-in and security was no problem and we ended up our two-hour wait chatting with our new friends, Art and Sheila. After that, we had a pleasant and uneventful flight home.

The rental car shuttle took forever, but the actual pick-up was easy and the mini-van had more than enough room for our luggage. Nobody fell asleep on the way home, even though we dropped Ron and Peri off at about 2:00 AM.

Home to the hugely excited wienerdog and our own bed! We’ll deal with the broken washing machine and non-functional computer tomorrow.

Day fifteen – Hilo

Up early and off the ship! Rainy and cloudy, but we’re used to that by now. We dodged the ship photographer, but Ron & Peri got caught.

Caught the shuttle to the car rental and off we went! The radio provided us with information that Kilahuea was erupting and the road to the ocean wouldn’t be open until 2:00 PM so we decided to scout for snorkeling spots. Never found any. We did, however find a beautiful black sand beach and some of the most striking coastline we’ve ever seen. We drove by the southernmost bar in the US and found a dead windmill farm and a suspiciously large tracking dish out in the middle of nowhere. There was also a lot of chatting and laughing.




Back to the volcano at 2:00 PM. The winding nineteen mile drive to the lava flow would have been do-able with our 4:45 PM deadline if you didn’t have to hike the last mile and a half! We turned around disappointed, but got some good pictures of the unearthly landscape on the way out. We got back with a little time to spare and flew up to the palm Springs Café to get something to eat. We’d been rocketing around the island all day and hadn’t stopped for food!

We finished packing and had the “Last Supper”. It was sad parting with Darma, Siwikorn and Ruby, but we just can’t afford to bring them home.

Off to bed.

Home tomorrow. (Booooooooooooooo!)

Day fourteen – At sea


HAPPY BIRTHDAY RON!

Could you find a better place to celebrate?

Sunrise was bland except for a brief rainbow. Sunset was not the best of the trip, but it was pretty cool.

Another spectacularly lazy day spent reading and sorting photos. I need a job testing cruises!

Start packing tonight, but we’re ready for Hilo tomorrow!

Friday, March 14, 2008

Day thirteen – At Sea


Recovering from the long day on Kiritibati. We received a shock when it was announced that a credit was going to be applied to our account as an apology for the missed ports. Ok, woo-hoo and all, but it says in our contract that ports may be cancelled at the discretion of the cruise line at any time. Someone must have struck a nerve with some major bitching to the powers-that-be! Or perhaps Celebrity is just the class act we have always found it to be. I’ll bet on the latter.

We went to our first show of the cruise and the last Gala Buffet of our lives. You would think the fellow cruisers that invaded the buffet like it was Poland in 1939 and shoving like a European soccer team with ‘roid rage would have been the worst part, but no… The Maitre ‘d shouting for us to move along, move along, even with nobody behind us was the straw that broke it. They are announcing that it takes 48 hours to prepare it…why would they start herding you for the exit after 5 minutes? Oh, well. I have enough fancy food pics from prior cruises that I can skip the hassle and Photoshop in a different color of Jell-o from an old shot and use it over.

Another Sea day tomorrow!

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Day twelve – Kiritibati



It was movie title day…The Good, the Bad and the Ugly!

The good: We crossed the Equator! A first for us (not counting the flight down under)! We actually crossed at about 2:03 AM, but it’s hard to get a crowd of people on deck for a celebration at that time of day. The crossing ceremony was at 10:00 AM, poolside. Ron got into the line to be christened with the rest of the crew’s first-timers (a la the navy) and was doused with pasta, green whipped egg-whites, flour and chocolate syrup. He was then forced to kiss a large fish and was thrown into the pool. A total of about thirty people went through the process leaving the pool looking like a very large bowl of cheap stew. Big crowd and a lot of fun! More on the pool later.

We have been loosely associated with a group that has been collaborating with Celebrity to deliver a large amount of donated school supplies to the children of Kiritibati. The New Jersey-based company shipped nearly two tons of supplies to Auckland where it was picked up by the Mercury and transported for free to the island. Celebrity chipped in and donated hundreds of bed sheets, nearly a hundred pairs of new shoes and other items as well. We were invited along to help document the delivery of the supplies and the various thank-you ceremonies. We were taken on a tour of several schools and it was very eye-opening. The country is very poor and the school facilities were reflective of that. It would have appeared tragic except that the people and children seemed to be very happy. No price on happy, is there? It was a moving experience and we were pleased to be a part of it, however small. Oh, yeah…we got some great pictures!

The bad: Tendering to the island did not go well. Hundreds of people that were given tender tickets were denied passage to the island due to the extreme shallowness of the harbor (our tender boat was grounded briefly on a sand bar on the way in!) and some really bad logistics on the part of the people in charge. This was compounded by some incorrect and somewhat misleading announcements made trying to explain why some people were going ashore and most weren’t. Most of the crew was given the day off since port days are usually light so there was minimal staff available to control the crowds. We heard stories of crowds so bad that the elevators full of people would open on deck 4 and the people could only wait and choose another floor, being unable to exit. When it got near riot level it was announced that there would be open bars from 4:00-6:00 PM to compensate people for their inconvenience.

The ugly: They announced that there would be open bars from 4:00-6:00 PM to compensate people for their inconvenience…

This, of course caused a rush on the bars. All the folks that had been restrained in their drinking because of $6 drinks suddenly loosened up a bit. Since the staff had the day off in expectation of a light day, there were only a few waiters and fewer bartenders on duty. More lines…long ones. When the people in those long lines got to the front and ordered the $10 premium martini, they were told that free drinks were limited to house wine and domestic beer. This, of course, hadn’t been part of the announcement and was made worse by the fact that the main bar on deck seven hadn’t been given the wine and beer memo and was serving any drink asked for (word spread quickly by the folks that were bar-hopping to collect as many freebies as possible). Late in the period, the bars were instructed to loosen up and serve anything in response to another near riot fuel by cheap wine and beer. Many people, frustrated by the inability to reach the island, went to the pool. It still had spaghetti and such floating in it from earlier since it now was classified as grey water and couldn’t be drained until the ship was twelve miles at sea.Only one fist-fight that we heard of…

We, of course got back late and knew nothing of these goings-on. We wore the flower headdresses that were given to us by the grateful islanders and were greeted with withering looks and sharp questions from surly fellow passengers wanting to know why we were allowed to go to the island and they weren’t. Indignant attitudes softened when we explained that we were part of the donating group and then were regaled with their tales of woe. On seeing what the minimalist infrastructure on the offered (port-a-potties were a luxury), most people would have just turned around and gone back to the ship had they been allowed to go. Having no way to know that, the loss of the opportunity to visit another port brought caused some excusable bitterness.

At sea tomorrow. Plenty of time for the indignant masses to write their letters to the cruise line.

Day eleven – At sea.

Ultimate sea day…lounged and read most of the day. Kim too!

We broke from the mold and went up to the casual dining venue on deck 11 instead of regular seating. It was pretty good. We still prefer the structured dining, but it seems the industry is edging towards flexible schedules.

Big day tomorrow!

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Day ten – At sea.



Up for sunrise, as usual. The sunrise and sunsets have ranged from fair to spectacular. We did some reading and ate. Big surprise there, I’ll bet.

A bit of a walking tour of the ship to see if there were any nooks or crannies previously overlooked. Nope…at least nothing that didn’t have “No Admittance” plastered all over it.

The four of us spent a couple of hours with Sheila and Art from the Cruise Critic group and had a wonderful chat with them about cruising and other subjects. I recovered some images from a card for her and was paid with fruit, cheese and a couple of drinks. Fair trade if you ask me!

Evening took us to the Captain’s Party with the usual round of free drinks and hors d’ oeuvres. Dinner followed and it was early to bed. Sounds mundane, but it is incredibly relaxing.

Monday, March 10, 2008

Day nine – Bora Bora rocks!

Our first impression of Bora Bora was as good as our first impression of Tahiti was bad. What a picturesque spot of paradise. We took a circle tour of the island on “Le Truck”, the local mass transportation converted to Sunday cruise tours. Papaeete looked run-down to us. The housing on Bora Bora was patchwork sometimes and had the flagrant lack of building codes you would expect, but rather than shabby, it looked “simple”. Whatever it was that felt different, it did and we really liked the island.

We took a circle tour and the driver stopped at some very scenic spots. Not hard to do…the place reeks of scenery. One stop was at a pareo factory. Make that “factory”. It was somebody’s yard where they hand decorate the cloth and make these traditional Tahitian wraps. It was actually very charming and the designs and colors were beautiful. There were fruit and pastries available and the proprietor and her family were very nice. Kim and Peri picked up a few since the price was far less than what they were charging for mass market wraps in Papaeete. We visited Bloody Mary’s but only had time to pick up a t-shirt and look around. We weren’t there quite long enough to suck up one of their signature drinks. Interesting place with it’s sand floors and décor.

Not enough time to snorkel, but it was a full day and we were impressed by the beauty and simplicity of Bora Bora. Would we go there for a week without a cruise ship? Maybe, just maybe…

A visit to the Martini Bar, on to the pre-dinner show featuring a comedian and then dinner rounded out a perfectly pleasant day.

Day eight – Welcome to Mexihiti

Kim’s first impression when she looked out over Papaeete was “Did we turn the wrong way?” “This looks like Mexico!” I assured her that this wasn’t the case. As soon as the ship was cleared, we went ashore to check out the marketplace and suddenly became the one with doubts about our destination. It’s time to repeat this again: The more we travel, the more we love America!

The weather was grey and we hadn’t booked a tour since Kim and Peri has designated Papaeete as the shopping Mecca of Polynesia. Good thing, apparently. The people who took independent tours reported that the island paradise rep that Tahiti enjoys has very little representation on the main island.

Our shopping walk (#1) was an eclectic blend of high and low end. Kim & Peri found “the Pearl” that they have been looking forward to for most of two years and spent the rest of the time sorting through the incredibly expensive chaff that the markets had to offer. I got some interesting photos from the central marketplace, but am underwhelmed by the city in general. Kim, Ron and Peri went out for a second shop-a-thon leaving me to my book and a nap. Both sides feel that they got the best of that decision.

The jury is out on the island as a tropical paradise since we only have some disappointed tourist’s opinions to go by, and they didn’t get a chance to visit the major resorts. That said, the chance of our returning for a longer visit than a cruise stop is slim.

Bora Bora tomorrow…will it be Paradise Found?

Day seven – Friday at sea



Ate, drank and were merry.


Sunrise and sunset were good to me. We were graced with a rainbow at sunset that may end up on our wall. Nothing but clouds and light. Quite an example of nature at work, though.

It seems that the casino has turned on Kim. Not too bad, but her streak is tarnished. We learned how to blend Chardonnay wine at a nice little Captain’s Club event. Good to know that stuff if we ever take up wine drinking! Surely there was more, but it has passed into a haze of reading and napping.

Tahiti tomorrow!

Friday, March 7, 2008

Day six – Thursday on, or more correctly, near Rorotonga

Fate soared over us like an albatross and like the huge seabird, dumped a big fat lesson that there are no guarantees in life. Thirty-five knot winds and two-meter seas kept the tenders berthed and sent our hopes of a day in a tropical paradise to a watery grave.


The powers that navigate tried to anchor a couple of times, but the wind and rough seas won out in the end. Our only contact with the island was a tug boat that came out to ferry some lost luggage that had been forwarded from Auckland to its anxious owners. Watching the tub bob in the water like a cork made us feel better about the Captain’s decision. We circled the island once and departed for Tahiti four hours early.

The circumnavigation was scenic and our tour was refunded, but we would have rather had the on-shore experience over the money.


It was a disappointment, but a day that ends up on a floating hotel with food and drink in abundance and in the company of your spouse and friends is not all that bad.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Day five – Wednesday at sea

Not a typo! We got back the Saturday we lost getting to Auckland in the form of a second Wednesday this week. A little Groundhog Day injected into our lives. The day was highlighted by the Captain’s Club party. It was a little odd with little if any presence by the upper staff, but our new friend from the Martini Bar spotted us and made sure we did better than flutes of mediocre champagne…lots better.

Another day spent in a whirlwind of reading and relaxing. Is there any end to this torture? I hope not!

I haven’t mentioned it so far for fear of visiting the dreaded Jinx upon her, but Kim has been kicking the casino’s butt for the last four days. She has won, lost, won, lost and is still about $400 ahead…even counting the $60 I have spent finding out that those machines see me as nothing more than a fleshy ATM.

Day four – Wednesday at sea

We ate, we napped, we ate, we read, we did what wise cruisers do…we crusied! Purely an R & R day. I snapped a few photos, but we took advantage of the opportunity for uninterrupted lethargy and spent the day in blissful relaxation so complete that we kept checking each other for a pulse.

Travel, good friends, good food, surrounded by miles of peaceful ocean and fifteen days forced to share each other’s company. It doesn’t get much better than this.

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Day three – Tuesday at sea

Awoke to more rain and wind. The day brightened throughout the morning to a mostly sunny afternoon. I spent the early AM in the Navigator Lounge reading and thoroughly enjoying the ambiance. Kim slept in and woke with the last traces of jet-lag gone.

We spent the day lounging, reading, eating, lounging, reading, eating…you get the point.

Kim was lovely in her yellow satin gown and Peri was elegant as the lady in red at Prom Night #1. Ron and I were so very James Bond in our tuxes. Ok, the last part was a bit wishful, but the assessment of the girls was accurate.

Martinis before dinner in the Martini bar. A typically delicious dinner followed. The singers and dancers were unable to keep our attention or our eyes open, so it was off to bed to end another day on the Ship to Paradise.

Monday, March 3, 2008

Day two - Tauranga!

Our day started early since we had a 7:30 AM tour departure. The tour itself started badly with a long, scenic drive through the New Zealand countryside in a bus with windows fogged to opacity. We arrived at our first “stop” for a view of the thermal activity and drove in and out of the parking lot without stopping for a closer view of the distant steamy areas. We drove past a beautiful area with a building described as “the most photographed building in Rotorua”…without a stop to photograph it. At our first actual “stop” we went into the Kiwi Encounter right past signs forbidding photography. Saint Kim managed to keep me calm up to this point, assuring me that it would get better.

Fortunately it did and we ended up having a nice day of it…even if Kim was soaked by a very large geyser eruption. The Maori guide who was leading her to a better view of the geyser at the time, was soaked too and told her that the gods must like Kim and that it was a good omen. What a pleasant day! The weather was mostly sunny, I got some great pictures and Kim was blessed by the Maori gods with several hundred gallons of hot, stinky sulphur water!

We sailed at sunset and the weather went south as we turned north. The clouds provided another wonderful sunset and then wind and rain. Peri was a bit shaky since she’s the one prone to seasickness, but she got to the drugs in time and avoided dinner loss.

We fell asleep to real live rock and roll!

12+ hours in the air!

This trip will set some records for us. Longest flight at 12 hours and 40 minutes. Farthest south, Farthest east and farthest west (oddly, you are able to go either way to get to the other). Largest number of days on a single ship (this trip will make it 35 days on the Mercury). Our first (and second) crossing of the Equator. And, of course, first (and second) time crossing the Date Line.

Time flies when you’re having fun! Sitting in a butt-hugging seat with two inches of free space in front of your knees for over 12 hours is not fun and time didn’t fly. It wasn’t as bad as imagined, but it was not a commute one would like to repeat daily. Qantas has the on-demand video in the seat backs, which probably saved our sanity. The food was more than adequate as well. Not five-star by any means, but light-years ahead of pretzels and peanuts. Three movies, a BBC special on the Galapagos, an hour’s sleep and two meals later, we were there!

After a brief and relatively uneventful trip through New Zealand customs, we were met by a cheerful Celebrity Cruise Lines rep who led us to a waiting box truck. We were pretty disappointed with the accommodations until we realized the truck was for our luggage! We dropped off the main mass of our luggage and proceeded to the large and very comfortable motor coach awaiting our arrival. Keep in mind that all of this has taken place before 8:00AM local time…cheerful rep and all! We weren’t going to be able to board before noon and were wondering where they were going to drop us off, but the answer was far better than expected. Celebrity, realizing that US flights land at dark o’clock , had arranged a series of stops on the way to the ship that included a trip to the top of a local peak for a view of the city, a visit to an indoor garden with tea, coffee and snacks and a visit to a very impressive museum. After all that, we were dropped off at the pier and were on board shortly with a minimum of fuss. Sailaway and dinner were pleasant and we turned in early after 30 hours without more than a fitful nap on the plane.

Oblivion.